Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Help Me! Sewing Friends - I Need Fit Advice!

Well, I've been working on my Jasmine Blouse on and off for a little while now on and off and a project that I wanted to do because it would be quick and easy (a.k.a. no zippers or buttons to insert - ha ha!) has turned into problem after problem.

First of all, it was entirely my own fault - I cut out too big of a size. I went by my measurements, but it ended up being too big. This is my first time with a Colette pattern though, so I'm chocking it up to that. After each step in the main bodice, I would try on the piece only to pinch in on the center seam and then go back and sew it in some more. I seriously have taken about 1.5 inches out in the center seam front and back - I know right! Well, live and learn. Because of all that, I've really just accepted that this first Jasmine will end up as a (hopefully) wearable muslin. It's amazing how just that thought makes it a little less stressful to constantly have to re-sew a new seam. If you don't believe me, just look below.
Yeah - that's my center seam after messing with it to where it actually almost fit. I now officially hate seam ripping. The next problem I realized that cutting it out too big is the neckline - I felt like a nun. I was really confused why it was so high at first, so I laid the pattern back on it to see what size the sides looked close to now that it's better fitting and it was about 4 sizes too big before which affected the neckline as well. So, I traced the new neckline and it's looking better there.

The next issue I had was with the actual pattern itself. The back bodice piece has a weird hour glass curve to it. I was skeptical when I cut it out, but I just did it anyway. Turns out I was right. Check out what that curve did to my back. 
What hump? Yeah - I had a big hump of fabric at the back of my neck. I had to make a new seam there to make it straight instead of curved outward.

Anyway, so last night I decided to finally rip out the 6 or so seams that I made while trying to fit the top. It's actually pretty good now except for one little thing that is driving me nuts.
I have a big crease at my bust line. I'm not sure if this is just because my fabric was a bad choice (it's close to quilter's cotton) or if there is some type of fitting technique I can use to make this weird pull go away. If I can't figure it out, I may just continue on with the blouse because it has a tie that hangs over this area anyway. So it won't be the end of the world.

So, sewists out there - help me! Is this something you know how to fix? I'm getting really tired of seam ripping so I would like to get this figured out before I try something else.

Also, has anyone else had this much trouble with this pattern? I mean it should be so much easier than it has been for me - is it just user error all the way?

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